Dominica Traveler Insights

Dominica is all about discovery. Much of its 360 rivers, tropical forests, and mountains remain unexplored. Sightseeing, trekking, hiking, and diving are among the best in the Caribbean. But the true nature of Dominica is a peaceful peace; tranquility in a land of towering mountains and cascading rivers. Going back in time, you are miles away from the modern world and its fast pace, time moves slowly in Dominica and that’s just the way Dominicans like it.

Dominicans are generous and very hospitable. They respect the land that gives them so much and are quick to point out that in Dominica you can live on very little; grow your own vegetables, keep your own chickens and fish off the banks. Vegetables and fruits grow everywhere. Two large avocados cost me less than a US dollar.

Not motivated by profit, Dominicans are inventive; they experiment and just do things for the fun of it. This tiny town of 70,000 spread over 290 square miles, produced its own beer, rum and coffee, was famous for Dominica’s straw mats and exported grapefruit and bananas to the world. In the valleys, sugar cane is grown, crushed and processed into high-quality Dominica rum.

Dominica’s unique quality of life attracts people. Gilles, a French businessman escaped to paradise, as he says, and opened the Sea Lounge with the “Best French Cuisine in the Caribbean”, says Gilles. “It got to the point where I had taken over my responsibilities, my daughter thought about her education and now it was time for me. Dominica appealed because she wanted to get away from the rat race and do something worthwhile where it could matter. I like the spirit of the people and the place.” Dinner in the Sea Lounge was the highlight. The food was excellent and at the end of the meal Gilles served complementary spiced rum. He says he likes to exceed your expectations!

I came to Dominica to meet with tourism officials and see how we could work with the tourism authority and bring technology and marketing services to the island. The first night we ran into Etta Deschamps by chance—she was sitting next to us at La Maison as we ate blackened fish and Creole shrimp. She and her husband established their film company, ZoomFilmCompany.com, in Dominica. “It’s alternative and authentic,” she said of Dominica. It has clearly inspired her work.

Travel writer Paul Crask also fell for him. American executives are discovering him for the right reasons and escaping to his mountain homes. “It will not be overdeveloped,” says Colin Piper, director of the Dominica Tourism Board, “we prefer to keep things simple and preserve the unique experience that is Dominica.” .

I hope that Dominica does not become another Antigua, Barbados and St. Lucia where there are hotels and condos everywhere. It is not your typical Caribbean beach vacation destination. There are several white-sand beaches up north, but the land is private and developers aren’t flocking because there’s no international airport and no one wants to tear down a mountain to build one.

The roads are narrow and often steep, with many curves. It takes an hour and a half to drive from the airport to Roseau, the capital: 27 miles. It is not about driving on a highway, it is driving through the jungle, sometimes a rain forest or a banana plantation, on the edge of a mountain with a panoramic view of the ocean coast.

You come to Dominica to escape and rejuvenate in nature. Paddling down the Indian River takes you to a new place of peace, tranquility and character. It’s Dominica, the island of nature, a brief moment to escape, step on the gas and enjoy the calm of nature while paddling up the river. The constant rhythm of the oars submerging in the water is almost hypnotic, it is very relaxing. On this island you will sleep in the comfort of a boutique hotel, elegant without being over the top, or climb up to your cabin in the treetops at the Jungle Bay resort.

Sitting on your oceanfront balcony at Calibishie Cove, with the wind blowing in your face, is the essence of relaxation. I felt my mind physically release a mountain of thoughts and for the first time in weeks I began to relax. Hazel the caretaker was the perfect hostess and she cooked excellent peas and coconut chicken rice using the provisions we had brought. Calibishe Cove has both apartments and suites without kitchens. We had booked a deluxe suite with adjoining rooms and wraparound balconies. It didn’t have a kitchen, which was great, Hazel’s cooking was so much better. Breakfast was delivered by van, with wide smiles and fresh orange juice courtesy of Helen.

We took the opportunity to walk down the 200 steps to the river estuary and beach below our suite. Trevor and his son joined us on the beach. Trevor, a boxing champion from the UK, moved to Dominica a few years ago. The steps, the river, the sea and the natural obstacles of hanging trunks and trees have become the perfect gym. He came to Dominica to get away from the hustle and bustle, he had wanted to start a boxing association but now plans to train boxers on the island. “I had the best training of my life here,” he said, “you know it’s the conditioning of your mind that makes the difference, Dominica turns you off.” His agent got him a fight in the UK with good prize money. “I shouldn’t have taken it since I was completely out of training,” he tells us. But Dominica’s magic had sharpened his mind; beach runs and shadow boxing had toned him up. He scored a knockout in the first round.

We were going around the island in a taxi. It seemed like the best thing to do so we could focus on taking photos and notes, but in hindsight I’d rent a car. A companion 4×4 rents for $40.25 a day. A taxi is so much more and you don’t have the freedom to go your own way or stop on a whim, to just sit back and watch and enjoy the scene. Our taxi driver was a 27-year-old Dominican with a family of two girls and a baby. He was looking forward to the picnic and Titiwi barbecue on Sunday. We did a round-the-island trip in two days, starting from Roseau, driving south to Scots Head, then up the mountain to Jungle Bay and the Carribean territories, stopping for the night in Calibishie.

We arranged to be picked up at 11 on Sunday and headed to Fort Shirley in Portsmoth. The fort has been beautifully restored by a project spearheaded by Dr Lennox Honeychurch. Lennox is a poet and historian. I read his prose about the ocean some years ago and I still remember the essence of it. He inspired something I wrote. “March, oh! Rolling sea, with your messages of time.”

On the way back to Roseau we stop at the Titiwi festival in Layou. The Titiwi are a kind of tiny eels. They are fried, baked, steamed, smoked or stewed in the style of Creole cuisine, very fishy like anchovies, a tasty delicacy with boiled bread, spicy Bello sauce and Kabuli beer. What impressed me the most was the friendly people and their warm hospitality.

Dominica Fish Festival and Dominica Fish Bake and Island Creole Cuisine

What you will notice in Dominica is colour, bright and vibrant but never flashy. Nature abounds with its color. Along the pathways, wildflowers spread a carpet of red, blue, white and yellow on a tapestry of green. The towns and villages come alive with bright greens, yellows, reds and all shades of blue, and in the fishing villages well-kept fishing boats are painted with character.

Pink fishing boats say as much about the owner as they do about the boat! This is an island of individuals, about personal choice and the determination to be different. It is for demanding travelers who are not the typical tourist. It is, and I hope it always will be, an undiscovered treasure hidden in time, where the values ​​of yesteryear endure.