How to improve the performance of a folding workbench

I like to create with my hands. I especially enjoy creating useful wooden items. Unfortunately, my self-designed and built 6 x 3 foot workbench has a tendency to get dirty with miscellaneous “things”, and I find myself at my wits’ end trying to build projects out of a piece of plywood strung into two folding trestles. . Not ideal, I will agree. I appreciate the convenience of being able to disassemble and store the components of my makeshift work surface. What I don’t like is that the work surface is not that stable and requires a separate set of clamps to attach the work surface to the trestles.

Looking for something sturdier than a piece of plywood and some adjustable clamps, I discovered that there are several folding workbenches on the market from manufacturers like Worx, Black and Decker, and they are sold at places like Home Depot, Lowes, and Harbor Freight. . Their prices are varied, but they all have similar characteristics. I especially like benches that fold, store easily, have built-in adjustable “clamps,” and can carry moderate loads.

After researching the various offerings, I settled on an inexpensive folding workbench from Harbor Freight.

After researching the various offerings, I settled on an inexpensive folding workbench from Harbor Freight. Price was a determining factor. You can see what I finally bought by following the embedded link below in the Resources section below.

The folding workbench comes as a kit. Critical elements are pre-assembled. I had to mount the two crank assemblies to the work surface of two fibreboard, then mount the legs and their reinforcing cross members that double as tool stations. The assembly was quick; I just needed to provide a Philips head screwdriver.

Unfortunately, the finished workbench does not fold completely. But the workbench works the way I wanted it to – it’s a sturdy, portable workbench that I can easily take around the house or to the backyard to exercise my woodworking skills. By adding some extra speed clamps and a 6 “portable carpenter’s vise, I’m good to go (my first project was making and attaching two pieces of ¼” paneling to the metal jaws of that 6 “vise. 6 “carpenter).

Looking at the construction of the workbench, it occurred to me that with a few minor modifications, this workbench could be materially improved. And that’s what prompted me to write this “How To” article to document what I did to my workbench.

There are five areas on that workbench that, with a few minor modifications, will materially improve its performance and likely extend its useful life. None of these suggestions are critical, or even necessary for the casual user. Neither of these suggestions is complicated to implement, but I think it will probably be worth the effort as time goes on.

Area # 1: The “flat fold” feature.

When this workbench is assembled according to the instructions, when folded, the handles are positioned pointing towards the legs towards the floor. By reversing the way the legs are mounted (exactly the reverse of the installation instructions), the handles are now on top of the folded bench, pointing away from the legs, and the legs fold completely flat! An easy fix.

Area # 2: The crank clamp lead screw adjustment.

I noticed that the table that is mounted on the crank lead screw that makes the work surface tables function as a built-in target, was loose and moved when the cranks were turned. To remedy this, I used a wrench to tighten the crankshaft fitting on the movable work surface so there would be less play when the unit is rotated. Don’t over-tighten, or the board won’t move at all!

Area n. 3: The sheet metal end clamp bracket with thumbscrew.

Each of the crank lead screws passes through an end plate that is bent from the metal sheet of the leg support. If you look closely, you will notice that the lead screw plate is secured to the side walls by two sheet metal “ears” and two small dimples in the side walls. That seems like a potential source of downstream failure – nothing is stopping the side walls from separating and allowing the crank to loosen. My solution? Simple – I installed a hold down bolt through the side walls just behind the end plate. To secure the side plates and keep them from separating, approximately 1 inch from the end plate, I drilled a ¼ “hole through the two side plates (which also mount the legs) and installed a ¼ -20 bolt. 1 ½ inch long with a washer and locknut. By tightening the locknut, the end plate is held firmly to the side wall plates; this will prevent the end plate that holds the lead screw and starter cranks from loosen over time.

Area # 4: Reduce friction.

The assembly instructions had me use a bolt, two washers, and a locknut on each leg to hold it in place. The problem is, that means the legs will wear out on the side plates. It is not a good idea. I bought 8 more stainless steel flat washers and put them between the legs and the side panels. The legs will now wear on the washers instead of the side plates. This makes the leg clamp assembly consist of the bolt head, washer, side plate, washer, leg, washer, other side plate, washer, and then the locknut. So each of the legs now has 4 washers: two washers on the outside of the side panels and two washers to prevent the leg from rubbing directly against the side wall. Again, don’t over-tighten or the workbench won’t fold.

Area # 5: Make things run smoothly.

Be sure to lubricate all moving surfaces with oil, WD-40^™ or a dry film lube (you can use a light grease on the two lead screws, but if you grease the slide rail, I think you’ll find the grease will probably be sawdust magnet). Be sure to lubricate all sliding or swivel joints and connectors, especially the added washers on the legs where they mount on the side plates.

Area # 6: Replace fiberboard work surfaces.

While this is a bench designed for light to moderate loads, you might consider replacing the work surface fibreboards with 1½ x 4 inch lengths of wood, properly drilled holes for the plastic clamp inserts. If you are comfortable with a planer or electric router, make a proper cut to clear the handles and use 1 ½ X 6 inch boards for the work surfaces. That will give you a larger work surface when the two panels are fully engaged.

As I said at the beginning of this article, none of these rework items is absolutely necessary; The workbench will work great as is if you simply follow the included assembly instructions. But I think these minor modifications and modifications will enhance your enjoyment of this inexpensive folding workbench. I know I have.